In late 2007 a rumbling occurred deep in the tropical waters of the Bay of Bengal. Within hours of Cyclone Sidr smashing into southwest Bangladesh, the world’s media and aid organisations were on the move and Bangladesh was about to find herself wrenched back out of obscurity and once again presented to the global community as a classic ‘basket case’ (as Henry Kissinger once described the country) of disaster. The pictures and stories that emerged from Bangladesh at that time portrayed an entire nation on its knees, but this was only a half-truth for within hours of the storm hitting, the majority of the country was back on its feet and operational.
This wasn’t the first time that Bangladesh had been dismissed as a no-hope nation, and it probably won’t be the last. But no matter what the opinion of the wider world is, this dynamic country proudly considers itself to be an active participant in an increasingly global community. In defiance of its stuttering development and the weight of historical tragedy that it bears, it is a nation charged with perseverance and promise, and one from which we could all learn a thing or two. For the great irony is that while images of devastation were beamed nightly into Western living rooms and the talk was of an unfolding humanitarian disaster, nobody bothered to say that Bangladesh could make good news. In the years preceding Cyclone Sidr, the country had been quietly doing something considered nearly impossible in richer Western countries – banning all petrol and diesel vehicles from the major conurbations (and, if things go to plan, the entire nation) and replacing them with cleaner alternatives. If striving for cleaner air isn’t enough, they’ve also banned plastic bags and created a flurry of national parks and protected areas. The same holds true for the country’s tourism profile. The majority of the world considers Bangladesh to be a frying pan–flat country. Yet within this flat framework are primeval swamps in Sundarbans National Park, full of man-eating tigers, the unseen relics of long-forgotten Buddhist kingdoms in Rangamati, lush and lurid tea plantations around Srimangal, tribal groups with Burmese faces, glorious beaches at Cox's Bazar that stretch for eternity, freshwater dolphins and deep-water whales, and some of the most open-hearted people you will ever have the honour to meet. This is a country where genuine adventure is not just a possibility but a certainty. You can chug down mile-wide, slug-brown rivers on a 19th-century riverboat, fish with otters, and hunt for the world’s deadliest honey. All this in a country whose loftiest peak is as tall as the highest mountain in Scotland.
Introducing Bogra
Bogra, a sprawling town with a small heart, serves primarily as a base from which to explore two of the country’s most famous and impressive archaeological sites – Mahasthangarh and Paharpur. The former is 10km north of town, and the breathtaking latter, 53km to the northwest. It would be an exaggeration to describe Bogra itself as attractive or exciting, but it does have a couple of little treats that make saving a morning for the town worthwhile. These include the Chandi (a boisterous central market area), an interesting rajbari (palace) and an eccentric dream zoo.
Getting there & away
Land
Bus
Buses usually arrive at Bogra’s central bus station, 2km northwest of town at the junction of the Rangpur Bypass road and the road to Naogaon (close to the Motel Safeway). From here it’s a Tk 10 rickshaw ride into town.
Ordinary buses travel to Dhaka (Tk 120, 4½ hours) via the Bangabandhu Bridge. Most coach offices for buses to Dhaka are west of Sat Mata, but the Green Line bus office is just to the south of Sat Mata. Deluxe air-con buses cost between Tk 350.
Buses leave the central station throughout the day for Natore (Tk 30, 2½ hours) and Rajshahi (Tk 70, three hours). There are several buses to Khulna (Tk 200, 8½ hours, depart around 9am) and Rangpur (Tk 60, 2½ hours, every 20 minutes from 5.30am to 6pm). Travellers to Paharpur can take regular buses throughout the day to Jaipurhat (Tk 50, 1½ hours) and a tempo or bus (Tk 10) on to Paharpur. Buses also run to Mahasthan (Tk 10, 30 minutes, 11km).
Train
Bogra doesn’t have great train connections and most people take the bus, but there is one train a day to Dhaka (1st/sulob class Tk 320/215, 1.07pm daily except Saturday) which arrives in Dhaka at 8.20pm, and a night train departing at 9.56pm nightly except Monday.
There are no direct trains from Bogra to Dinajpur or Rajshahi.
